Used car

Used car - the country's most sold type of car :) Here are the posts with practical advice and tips for you who are going to buy a used car.

Tesla Model 3 as a used car

Posted 20/07/2024 by Terje Bjørnstad

Here's what makes the Tesla Model 3 a good choice as a used car - a few things you should know about the model and what you should look out for when you've bought one.

First, a brief summary of the advantages and disadvantages of the Tesla Model 3:

Benefits

Good range in all conditions.
Good grip with favorable weight distribution and four-wheel drive system.
Good driving characteristics with a fairly firm chassis.
Only car brand with its own global charging network.
All the cars are connected.
Continuous software updates with improvements in range, performance and functionality.

Considerations

Limited space, especially for larger parcels.
A lot of noise for an electric car to be.
Sitting comfort on the level.
Poor rear visibility.
Makes unexpected braking.

Model 3 is available in 3 versions

The first version was produced in Fremont, California. These have chrome strips around the side windows, under the mirror housings and around the cameras. In 2020, Tesla started production of cars at a completely new factory in Shanghai and the first cars arrived in Norway in September 2020. Model 3 had then received several upgrades. On the outside, the chrome strips were replaced with black decor. In addition, the cars were equipped with a heat pump, sound-insulating windows, a new center console and electric closing of the boot lid. The cars also had their range extended. Under the shell, a number of small improvements were made, among other things to simplify maintenance.

From September 2023, the Model 3 was further reworked. The cars got new front and rear lights, as well as other changes to reduce air resistance. Improvements were also made to the noise insulation. Tesla's solution to replace the levers for turn signals and gear selection with push buttons on the steering wheel has received a lot of negative attention.

The quality deficiencies

When Tesla started car production in California, several minor quality defects were discovered on the cars - such as human hair in the paintwork, components that were poorly adapted and so on. When Tesla opened its new factory in Shanghai, the quality deficiencies reappeared. Several experienced problems with paint and finish, as well as problems related to the new heat exchanger.

There are few car brands that are discussed as much on social media as Tesla. Many share experiences, advice and tips. My tips about the Tesla Model 3 as a used car are based on my own and acquaintances' experiences.

Own experiences

We have a 2020 Tesla Model 3 in the house which will soon turn 60.000 km. So far, it has been reasonably operational. The car has been followed up by Tesla to fix two known manufacturing defects. I myself have changed the fresh air filters and windscreen wipers. Recently, the window regulator on the front right side was replaced by Tesla. After 4 years, it is recommended to change the brake fluid. The new car warranty expires in one year. I am currently keeping an eye on the following issues:

water in the right rear light
abnormal amount of rust in the front upper wishbones.

Well-built and up-to-date

Tesla Model 3 and Model Y share the same technology. Together, they top the sales statistics for electric cars. Many cars mean proven technology. Fredrik Grufman, who drives Grufman Car just outside Stockholm, states on his YouTube channel that "Tesla Model 3 is an ENORMOUSLY well-built car". You can therefore count on these cars to be up-to-date for many years to come.

But they are not flawless. Errors and damage can easily become very expensive to repair. That is why the insurance premium is high. Fortunately, there are now several workshops outside of Tesla that are authorized to repair Teslas. It is rarely beneficial to be tied to the brand's workshops when you own a car that is starting to age.

Life expectancy

When the first Teslas appeared, many predicted that they would have a short lifespan. Expired batteries and rust were mentioned as examples. As the first cars were produced in 2018, no one can give an exact answer as to how long they will last. The batteries wear out both according to the number of charges and over time. For now, there doesn't seem to be any reason to worry. There is also no reason to believe that the cars will rust more than other cars, although that remains to be seen.

Funderud Antirust offers a solution for rust protection of Teslas, including a do-it-yourself package. It can extend the life of the car, but it can also lead to a breach of Tesla's warranty provisions. However, if you opt for full rust protection carried out by a workshop, you can get an extended rust warranty.

Buy

Checkpoints specific to the Tesla Model 3 as a used car:

Check varnish. Many cars have lost paint along the sides by the canals.
On early cars, the boot lid could come into contact with the bodywork. Check for damage and rust around the boot lid.
A little moisture in the rear lights is unfortunately common (not to be avoided), but check whether there is water in the reflectors or whether the glasses are covered in steam.
Check the doors for rust and creaks.
Check messages on the screen, or "Service Alerts" history. Here you can find both innocent warnings and more serious errors.

Windscreen and glass roof may be exposed to stone chips. Check for signs of water ingress.
Be extra critical if you are considering buying early 2019 cars and the first cars from Shanghai that arrived in late fall 2020. The 2019 model has a serious problem with the brake pipes. To replace it, the main battery must be dismantled - about 30000 kroner. Many owners of the 2021 models from Shanghai have had problems with the air conditioning/heat exchanger.
With a curb weight of 2000 kg and engine power of +/- 500 HP (Tesla Model 3 Long Range and Performance), tires and undercarriage can be exposed to extreme stresses. Pay attention to signs that indicate an aggressive driving style - for example, abnormal wear on the steering wheel, pedals and tires.

To own

Splash pads
Early models had no mud flaps or splash protection from the front wheels, and it didn't take long before the first warranty claims came from owners where splashes had washed away paint on the ducts and front part of the rear fenders. The cars were eventually fitted with hard plastic splash guards. In addition, new car buyers are given rubber mud flaps which they can fit themselves to protect against splashes from the front wheels. My own experience is that the hard plastic splash guards provide satisfactory protection under normal conditions, and they are not unsightly. On the contrary. But if the car lacks these, you should buy them through the Tesla App or other suppliers. The rubber mud flaps from Tesla certainly provide great protection, but they are too long and you have to cut a good chunk off so that they don't slide down the speed bumps. The fact that Tesla supplies extra mud flaps probably exempts them from later compensation claims. Fit the mud flaps uncut if you drive a lot on dirt roads.

Learn how to reset the screen
Many people find that the screen or functions of the infotainment system do not work properly. It may happen that the screen goes black. I myself experienced that one day the radio did not work with a message about a DAB error. The solution was to reset the screen. This is done by putting the car in Park, keeping your foot on the brake and holding down both buttons on the steering wheel until the screen goes black and then holding them down for at least 30 seconds - or as long as it takes for the screen to return.

Check Service alerts
Service alerts are warnings and messages about errors. They don't have to be serious, but they can be. The messages remain visible on the screen only as long as the error condition is present. But they never completely disappear. You can read the message log by clicking on "Control" and then the message icon (bell) at the top of the screen.

Learn service mode
Service mode is a setting that gives access to read and change vital data on the car. It is harmless to enter service mode as long as you do not change anything. One of the functions provides access to read the state of the low-voltage battery. There are many YouTube videos showing how to enter service mode and what functions are available.

Get to know YouTube videos
There are an impressive number of YouTube videos showing how to fix things on a Tesla Model 3 or Y. The only thing you need to be careful of is finding a video that mentions from model year. Before you start fixing anything on the car, you need to get a pry bar to pry out plastic studs. There is a lot of plastic that is held in place with rivets and clips.

Tire fix and pad for jack
It does not come with any spare wheel, jack or tire fixing kit with Tesla. In the event of a puncture, you must contact emergency services via the Tesla app. It may be a good idea to get a tire fix kit with a compressor and foam. Please note that original Tesla tires cannot be filled with foam. They are already filled with an insulating material. If the air leak is small, a compressor can help you move on. If you get local help to fix a tyre, it can be nice to have a pad with you for the jack mounts.

Tesla 3 Long Range

Inspection of the rear seats while we test drive.

Tesla purchase limped at the finish line

Tesla against "smoke"

Tesla charging at Electra

See

Hertz is getting rid of electric cars

Posted 14/01/2024 by Terje Bjørnstad

In recent years, Hertz has made large purchases of electric cars, especially from Tesla. Now they have decided to replace 20 of their electric cars with petrol cars. The rationale is thought provoking for all electric car owners.

According to the news agency Reuters Hertz has decided to cut the proportion of electric cars in the US by around a third and replace them with petrol cars. They are thus not going to reach their own goal that 25% of the car fleet should be electric by the end of 2024. Furthermore, they are also not completing plans from 2022 for the purchase of 100 Tesla cars, nor carrying out a planned purchase from Polestar .

– Hidden costs of owning electric cars

There are purely financial reasons behind Hertz's decision to cut the proportion of electric cars. In 2020, the car rental company was close to bankruptcy.

There is nothing wrong with the electric cars, but they have nevertheless cost the company dearly. According to Hertz, their electric cars are more often prone to damage than petrol cars, and the repairs are more expensive and time-consuming. Tesla is not explicitly mentioned in this context, but Tesla accounts for 80% of their electric cars in the US. It is also a known problem that Tesla is struggling to get spare parts delivered.

Another and more weighty reason is the high loss in value of electric cars in the past year. As is well known, Tesla chose to make a sharp price cut in January 2023, which meant that other electric car manufacturers had to do the same. Hertz therefore expects a significant additional loss on its electric cars purchased in 2021 and 2022 - estimated at USD 12 per car.

This is a food for thought for anyone who bought a Tesla or other electric cars before 2023. The fact that electric cars require less maintenance and have cheaper fuel than cars with thermal engines is like a pittance compared to the loss in value over the past year. This has become a hidden cost of owning an electric car.

The sale is underway

Hertz in the US sells cars at auctions and through its own website Hertz Rent2Buy. Here you can find 2-3 year old Tesla 3 for sale from USD 21, equivalent to NOK 000. The news that Hertz is selling off Teslas on the cheap may attract buyers from Norway. Perhaps a batch of these cars will appear here at home and also push Norwegian used car prices down further?

See

Buying a used car without technical knowledge

Posted 16/01/2022 by Terje Bjørnstad

used car purchase — (c) Can Stock Photo / mango stock

You don't need to be a car expert to buy a used car. You can make a safe used car purchase without opening the hood. Join an academic-sociological approach!

A successful car purchase?

First and foremost, it is important not to have too high expectations of what you can get for the money. Today, anyone can look up Finn.no and find out what a car is worth. Realistically, a successful purchase is getting a car that is worth exactly what you pay. The buyer has a duty to investigate and the seller has a duty to provide information. You can't complain afterwards that there was a huge dent in the back door. This falls under your duty to investigate without the seller needing to inform you about it. It is perhaps worse if the bearing for 3rd gear is gone. Shouldn't you have heard the noise? Should the seller have informed that there is a noise in the 3rd gear? These are the kinds of conflicts we must avoid.

Start from home

You need the following 2 websites: Finn.no provides an overview of almost all cars for sale. It is also a good place to search for used cars. Vegvesen.no provides access to registration card information for all cars.

From the advertisement, you need the following information if possible: Registration number og VIN number – a 17-digit code with numbers and letters such as YV1FS9056B2012345.

Check if the car is imported used!

Advertisements rarely state that the car is imported used, but you can check for yourself. Go to www.vegvesen.no, select Vehicle and further purchase and sale, then Vehicle information. If the dates of Registered for the first time og Registered for the first time in Norway are not the same, the car is second-hand imported. Used imported cars may have a shorter new car warranty than 5 years. If the car is newer than 5 years, you should ask the seller how long the new car warranty is, and whether there is any additional warranty. Also note that standard equipment on Norwegian cars can be additional equipment on foreign cars, such as seat heaters, preheating of diesel engines or battery packs. Ask the seller if the car has Nordic equipment. Also ask where the car has gone before.

If the car is imported used, you can check whether it was manufactured in a different country than cars that are brought in through official import channels. Letter/number numbers 1 and 11 in the VIN number indicate the place of manufacture. Check the digits against VIN numbers from similar cars sold through brand dealers. Cars produced elsewhere may have weaknesses in relation to cars brought in via a Norwegian importer.

If the car is imported used, it is also important to check that the engine capacity (fossil fuel cars) or battery capacity (electric cars) matches cars that are common in Norway. You can do this by checking against advertisements for similar cars on Finn.no.

Check EU control!

While you are on Vegvesen.no, you can see when the last EU inspection was carried out and when the next one is scheduled. Here you should refrain from buying the car as long as a recent EU inspection has not been carried out. Buying a used car close to EU inspection is a financial game of chance even for car experts. Cars with a defect patch can be beneficial for those who like to tinker a bit themselves - but not for others - even if the seller can show a price offer from a workshop.

Check mileage!

At Vegvesen.no, you can search for mileage. Then you need BankID or similar to log in to Your page. The km length is from the last EU inspection. Any discrepancies should be explained in the advertisement.

Check model year!

Model year does not follow registration year. In general, production of next year's car models begins as early as July/August of the previous year. Check letter/number no. 10 in the vehicle's VIN number. You can find it at Vegvesen.no. There is an internal code that indicates the model year. Compare the letter/number with similar cars in sales advertisements from brand dealers. A "overhead car" is often only advertised with the first registration year - not the model year. On cars less than 1 years old, the difference can amount to several tens of thousands of kroner. On older cars it has little significance.

Check when any timing belt should be replaced!

Changing the timing belt often costs NOK 10 or more. The timing belt must be changed at prescribed km intervals or time intervals - whichever occurs first. Usual intervals are 000-60 km or 120-000 years. You should make sure that the previous owner has not exceeded the exchange limit. It should appear in the advertisement when the timing belt was last changed - possibly that the car has a chain and not a belt. If not, you must ask the seller. If the strap is to be changed within a short time, this should be taken into account in the price.

Check here when the timing belt should be changed (older models)

Check if there is a service history!

It is not usual to post pictures of the service booklet in the advertisements, but it is possible to find out about it exists service booklet. Should the service booklet be missing, the seller should be able to show invoices for service and repairs carried out in the last 3-4 years, or something similar. Regardless of whether the service booklet exists or not, it can be useful to see the papers from last great service.

The service documents not only provide assurance that the work has been carried out. It can also contain useful information - such as errors the owner has pointed out, the results of troubleshooting, things the owner is asked to keep an eye on, as well as notes from the mechanic with regard to general condition and future repairs.

As the invoice is a personal document, you probably won't get to see it if the car is sold through a dealer, but you can ask any brand dealer if there are any notes from the last service.

NAF test?

A test report from NAF-test is of course reassuring, but if the buyer orders a test several days after the viewing, there is a risk that the car will be sold in the meantime. There is no conclusion as to what is best, but documentation of a recently carried out major service can tell as much as a template-filled test report from NAF. This probably depends a little on the mechanic who has carried out the work.

Guarantees?

The owner of a used car takes over the remaining new car warranty within 5 years - and an extended warranty on rust and any battery pack. Many workshops provide guarantees on service and repairs - for example a mobility guarantee. These guarantees are automatically transferred to the new owner. Many dealers and car dealerships offer some form of used car warranty. Small companies often offer guarantees through 3rd party companies which you have to pay for yourself. Extended warranty is a good compensation for lack of technical knowledge.

Ask all questions via written message service!

After reading the above, you may be left with questions for the seller. If you use Finn.no, you will find an excellent messaging service there. If necessary, you can also use e-mail. But in any case, it is important to ask the questions in writing. Some sellers only make themselves available by phone for various reasons. One reason is that nothing they say can be used against them in a later conflict. All questions regarding the vehicle should be in writing. If you cannot contact the seller via written media, you should stay away.

Check other customers' reviews!

If the seller represents a small company or sole proprietorship, it can be worthwhile to study how other customers have rated the company's services. If it is registered on Google.com, you can easily see what others have written and what grade they have given.

Sociological investigations

The search for a "story"

Information about the seller and previous owner can be useful. The aim is to get a "story" about the car - without messing up anyone's private life. Occasionally, private advertisements contain a short "story", such as the following:

«- Bought the car to commute between A and B for two years. Have now changed jobs and no longer need the car. It has worked fine the whole time….”

"- Selling the car with a heavy heart because we have ordered an electric car..."

"- Putting the car up for sale for my mother, who has now become too old to drive. Apart from some parking scratches, the car is in good condition...”

If the car is sold as a trade-in car through a dealer, it is not as easy to find a "story" beyond an unsigned one - "Car we have received as a trade-in...". Nevertheless, it is possible to obtain information about the previous owner at Vegvesen.no. Then you can at least find out whether the car has previously been a leasing car, rental car, company car or something else. You can also see where the car has gone.

Different seller types

Just by reading the ad you can form an impression of the seller - whether the person in question is a private seller or dealer.

The silent type
No or few words in the advertisement indicate that the seller is not - or wants to be - particularly talkative. There may be language problems, but also a sales technique. If you want to know something, you have to ask. If you ask if there is a noise in 3rd gear, you will probably get an honest answer. Silent salespeople are no advantage to non-technical car buyers.

The advisor
The ideal seller profile. They inform about everything that is relevant. If you ask questions, they are happy to check up on the computer or contact others to give a correct answer. This is a typical one. modern retail salesman. They leave it up to you to make the decision.

"The Bullshitter"
This is a typical "old school" sales profile that can be found at retailers. The person will be happy to tell you what is best for you. If you ask questions, they answer promptly - but often by talking about other things, or telling you that what you are asking about is of no importance. If they know that you are not technically savvy, they are happy to overwhelm you with quasi-technical concepts that you are not in a position to make up your mind about.

The chatterbox
This is a person who gives too much information, preferably about their own private life - often about feelings and things that have no significance whatsoever for the trade. They talk a lot, and can really tell the car's "story". If you ask specific questions, you can still count on getting honest answers.

On display

Internal

The steering wheel tells a lot about the previous owner's driving style. A glossy and smooth leather steering wheel with wear where the hands have been placed can testify to an aggressive driving style. Driving with a constant grip on the steering wheel can also be due to insecurity.

Worn gear ball may indicate that the previous owner drove around with a heavy hand on the gear lever. First and foremost, a habit - and a small warning about careless use of the car.

Left seat rail and threshold - if there are unusually large signs of wear, it may indicate that the car has been used for light driving - perhaps mail or goods delivery, with frequent entry and exit.

Check the service booklet in the car's glove compartment.

External

Check varnish. Scratches and small dents are no problem. They cost 3 per scratch to repair, double if it goes over two body surfaces - for example door to screen. Reduce the price by many small hairline scratches (washing scratches) which are difficult to detect in photos, but easy to see in sunlight.

Check routes. Look for stone chips and wiper scratches.

Damage to the suspension?. Make sure the car is on level ground. Check whether the car is standing straight without leaning towards a side or corner - or "sags" at the rear end.

Car body. Aim along the gloss on the sides to see unevenness. Look for visible rust or overpainted rust at the transition between fenders and channels (the metal under the doors), around the wheel arches, under the doors and on the tailgate. If you see rust, you can count on there being more on the underside of the car.

Check the tires on which the car stands.

Test drive

Startup

Cold start is best. Start the car with the door open. Listen for sounds as soon as the engine starts. Ask the seller if you hear abnormal rattling or rattling. It is not unusual for a cold diesel engine to make noises like that when you start up. Check that the fan is working on all stages and that the air conditioner is cooling. Check that all windows can be opened and that doors open, close and can be locked.

On the road

Open the windows at a leisurely speed of around 40-50 km/h. Depress the clutch and listen for noises at the wheels. Feel free to drive a bit fast over a speed bump with the windows open and the clutch pedal depressed - and listen for abnormal sounds in the suspension. Find an open space and give full throttle in both directions. Check the clutch by driving up a steep incline in 2nd gear and keep the car again in the same downward gear. Did you notice that the clutch slipped - that the revs rose inexplicably? This may indicate a worn clutch. Drive through all the gears and listen for noises. If you drive an automatic transmission, check for jerks when shifting. It's a bad sign if it shifts with a "clunk". Punch and set in reverse. Does it take a long time? Does it happen with a strong jerk?

After test drive

Check cooling water temperature. Check under the car for leaks (not condensation from the air conditioning). Ask to see the tires that are not on the car.

Steer clear of these!

As a non-technical person, you should generally stay away from the following cars:

"Scrambled" cars
Cars that show signs of being modified technically and cosmetically - or where the private seller tells about repairs carried out without receipts. If you can't assess the work, you risk buying what we call a "dismantled" car.

Cars sold with EU inspection and service from the seller's own company or sole proprietorship
If you are going to buy a used car with the promise that it will be serviced by your own mechanic before delivery, you should bring a technical person with you who can negotiate what needs to be fixed at the service. Otherwise, there is a risk that only the oil will be changed and that everything else will be postponed until the next service, which the buyer must pay for himself.

Cars sold through car auctions
The auctions bring in cars whose background they do not know, and can be a place to sell cars with a questionable past. It takes a trained eye to spot what is good and what to stay away from.

Cars with a deficiency patch or an imminent EU inspection
As mentioned, these are cars that should only be bought by people who screw things up a bit themselves.

Can be purchased without technical knowledge

Conclusion

There are few who can call themselves technically knowledgeable about cars. Most people "know a little". The purpose of this article is to focus on research that anyone can do, and that can actually uncover greater things. For example, one should not underestimate the sociological. If you get a bad feeling about the seller and/or previous owner/ownership, you should not buy that particular car. The same if you get bad vibrations from the car. You don't have to be technically gifted to perceive that a car has not been treated with love.

If you who are reading this are planning to sell your car, it may be useful to think through the following:

What type of seller are you?

See

Nissan Leaf as a used car

Posted 30/05/2021 by Terje Bjørnstad

Visually, all Type 1 Nissan Leafs look the same. But under the shell, many changes have been made. If you're going to buy a used Leaf, you need to know what's under the hood, otherwise you could end up with a worthless car.

Wears its age well

Several cars from the first year of production have low mileage and look like new cars both outside and inside. Used car sellers know how to exploit this. They defend the high price by pointing to the car's general condition and mileage. "Owned by old lady...", and so on. As a car buyer, you must put the electric car features before all other features. It doesn't help that the car looks pretty if it can't be used for what it was designed for.

Although the Nissan Leaf 1 was gradually improved, two upgrades in particular are worth noting. The first occurred in mid-2013, the second in mid-2015.

The 2013 upgrade

According to Nissan, as many as 100 different big and small changes were made. By making the car lighter, more aerodynamic and improving regenerative braking energy, the range could be extended from 175 to 199 km NEDC. A more modern heat pump (optional) stole less electricity. By moving the on-board charger from the boot to the engine compartment, the boot was increased from 330 liters to 370 litres. The cars were better braced and thus behaved better on the road. The warranty period on the batteries was increased from 5 to 8 years. Furthermore, the car's on-board charger could take 6,6 kW – not just 3,6 kW – and you could use Type 2 cable. Let's also take into account that you could now get a black interior and leather seats on the Tekna edition.

The cars for Norway were now brought in from Sunderland instead of Japan.

The 2015 upgrade

The biggest news was that customers could now choose a new and long-awaited battery pack of 30 kwh. Almost everyone chose this, but the old 24 kwh battery pack was still in production. Cars with 30 kwh batteries were given a stated range of 250 km NEDC. Other improvements were that you could order cars with DAB radio and the NissanConnect infotainment system that can display available charging stations in real time.

Range

This is the Nissan Leaf type 1's Achilles heel. This is actually the only reason why many people turn their backs on the model. Unfortunately, it is possible to be thoroughly deceived on this point. Here are the ranges you can count on:

Cars before the 2013 upgrade

Official range is given in NEDC. It is a theoretical range that is almost impossible to reproduce under normal driving conditions. According to NEDC, the range is 175 km. Based on an unofficial – but fairly reliable conversion factor, the WLTP range will be approximately 142 km. That is the maximum you and I can expect to get out of a new battery. Practical range was 120-130 km in summer and 80-90 km in winter. We say "was" because the range decreases with age and usage patterns.

Cars with 24 kwh battery after the 2013 upgrade

The NEDC range was stated at 199 km. Some dealers still state this as the only range figure. Based on a conversion factor, the corresponding WLTP range will end up at approximately 156 km. Practical range is 120-140 km in summer.

Cars with 30 kwh battery

Stated range according to the factory is 250 km. Converted to WLTP, it corresponds to approximately 196 km. Practical range in summer is 140-190 km.

Battery capacity and condition (dotted line at outer edge)

Battery life

The Nissan Leaf is equipped with a fantastic function where you can read the state of the battery directly from the instruments. Actually, it's probably a voltmeter. It is marked as a dashed line to the left of the battery's capacity. There are 12 lines in total. Leaf owners indicate the battery's condition by telling the number of bars remaining. The cars in our selection are from 2011 to 2016. In this selection, it is quite normal for the cars to have lost one or two stripes. It is so normal that many dealers do not mention it, nor show a picture of the dashboard. If you don't know about this feature, you could be fooled. 10 dashes out of 12 on a 2013 model is perfectly normal - the dealer can't be blamed - but you might have preferred a car with 12 dashes, had you known this beforehand.

battery condition leaf — Example from a Leaf with greatly reduced battery capacity with only 5 out of 12 lines.

The range is reduced for each streak that disappears

Many owners choose to sell their cars when the battery "loses a streak". In the sales advertisement, they may write that they need better range. If you are considering buying a Leaf, you should calculate the range based on the battery having a line less than today. The first line corresponds to 15%, while subsequent lines each correspond to 7,7%. The range is reduced accordingly. Nissan's battery warranty comes into force if the car has lost more than 3 lines within 8 years. This corresponds to a remaining capacity of 61,9%. Up to 3 lines - which therefore does not trigger any warranty claim - corresponds to 69,6%. Let's go back to practical range numbers for those the very first The Leafs – all within normal capacity loss:
12/12 lines: 120-130 km summer, 80-90 winter.
11/12 lines: 102-110 km summer, 68-65 winter.
10/12 lines: 92-100 km summer, 61-69 winter.
9/12 lines: 83-90 km summer, 55-62 winter.

If you end up below 9 lines, it can be problematic to use the car in winter.

Import cars

Since 2012, several dealers have imported cars from the US and other European countries to meet the high demand for electric cars. Most of the imported cars are manufactured in the USA. These lack equipment that "Norwegian" cars have, including heated seats and heated steering wheel. Nor can they be connected to "Carwings", where the owner can remotely control pre-heating and more. In addition, the navigation system lacks European maps. It must be up to the individual to assess how important these features are on a nearly 10-year-old used car. The most serious thing is that the imported cars are among the worst in terms of loss of battery capacity. Some of the imported cars are sold with halved capacity, which makes the car unusable for the vast majority.

Check the chassis number (VIN)

You need to check the car's chassis number to determine the country of manufacture. You can find the chassis number or VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) most easily online by using the Norwegian Motor Vehicle Inspection Authority's lookup option. Enter the car's registration number on the link below and find the 17-digit number under the page marked "Registration data".

Vegvesen.no – Vehicle information

If the first character of the chassis number is "J" and character number 11 is a number, for example "0", the car is manufactured in Japan. Ordinary imports before 01.07.2013 took place from Japan. Cars produced in the USA were imported in parallel. USA-produced cars before 01.07.2013/11/1 may also have "J" as the first character in the chassis number, but character number 01.07.2013 is then "T". Then the car is manufactured in Tennessee. Cars with "XNUMX" as the first character are also produced in the USA. Cars from Sunderland, England, have "S" as the first character. This has been a normal import after XNUMX.

Few errors and problems

In general, there are few problems on the Nissan Leaf. Many report problem-free car maintenance for several years. Problems with the starter battery discharging are a common problem. Wear and tear related to wheel suspension and chassis seems to be on par with other cars, with replacements on cars that have passed well over 100. As long as the car is treated well, high km is not a big problem. A car with close to 000 on the odometer with 100/000 dashes can be just as good as a grandmother's car with extremely low km, stood for several years with a constant 12% on the batteries.

Prices

The prices are based on "on the route" prices from Finn.no.

2016 Nissan Leaf 30 kwh

Km 0-49: NOK 999 (129 cars)
Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)

2016 Nissan Leaf 24 kwh (for comparison)

Km 0-49: NOK 999 (115 cars)
Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)

2015 Nissan Leaf 24 kwh

Km 0-49: NOK 999 (99 cars)
Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)
Km 100-000: NOK 149 (999 cars)

2014 Nissan Leaf

Km 0-49: NOK 999 (90 cars)
Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)
Km 100-000: NOK 149 (999 cars)

2013 Nissan Leaf (both Series 1 and Series 2 cars)

Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)
Km 99-999: NOK 149 (999 cars)

2011/2012 Nissan Leaf

Km 50-000: NOK 99 (999 cars)
Km 100-000: NOK 149999 (49 cars)

Here you can see that prices fall by NOK 10 per year. 000 models with 2016 kwh batteries are understandably more expensive than equivalent cars with 30 kwh. These are undoubtedly the best in the selection and our clear choice. Here you get a lot of electric cars and simple car maintenance for the money. Our second choice is one of the cars after the 24 upgrade.

Steer clear of the cost bombs!

Posted 14/10/2020 by Terje Bjørnstad

Ford Fiesta and Mazda 2 are preferred by many grandmothers

If you are willing to reduce the requirements for comfort and safety, you can drive these cars cheaply.

Car for 30000 - a mined area

If you buy a car for 30000, you can easily run out of expensive repairs. A diesel particulate filter, an ABS unit, some Xenon bulbs, to name a few. Things you won't necessarily find on the test drive, and which the seller didn't know about when you bought either. Imagine if you have to spend 20 in repairs. Then you could just as easily have bought a car for 000 instead?

Usage pattern and car type

In terms of price, an older Volkswagen Passat or Ford Mondeo costs about the same as a small "grandmother's car". They offer more space, comfort and safety. The problem with family cars is that they have had a different usage pattern than small, simple cars. The family cars are more or less continuously in use. They not only have higher mileage and more rust, - but also more advanced technology and modern equipment that can turn them into cost bombs like old cars. You should invest more than NOK 30 for such cars.

Cars with few faults

TÜV inspects and approves cars and car equipment in Germany and Austria. Every year they publish a reliability report for different age classes of cars. Cars up to 11 years old have been tested. We have carried out a systematic search of complete TÜV reports from 2015 to 2019 to assess the reliability of cars under NOK 30000.

car for 30000 — English car tv (Nissan Micra mk3) and Japanese th (Mazda 2 -2008)

Cars that are cheap to maintain

The TÜV reports do not tell how much the annual car maintenance costs. Porsche, for example, comes high on the list of reliable models. Also other German premium models. The fact that these are in good condition after a good 10 years can largely be attributed to the brand dealers' expensive service programmes. The cars, which we have selected, are not just reliable - they can also be kept on the road at no great cost. They can be delivered to all independent workshops, and they can be screwed on by do-it-yourself mechanics.

The candidates that we have assessed

The following "grandmother models" are known to be reliable and affordable to keep in operation. We have looked at how they come out in the TÜV reports.

The Toyota Yaris, Honda Jazz, Mazda 2 and Opel Agila are ranked among the very best.

We have considered Ford Fiesta because it is the sister model to the Mazda 2. The Fiesta ends up better than average, but not as good as the Mazda. We have followed Nissan Micra, too, – because we know the predecessors as quite reliable minicars in the 90s. We didn't expect the 10-15 year old Micra mk3 to score far worse than average. Fiat 500 and the sister model Ford KA mk2 are rated because they appear as a breath of fresh air in this class. Both models ended up among the worst, especially the KA mk1, which according to TÜV must have been a catastrophically bad car.

The candidates that we have not considered

The mini car trio Peugeot 107, Citroen C1 og Toyota Aygo is not rated, because we have seen an alarming number of cars for sale as rep objects. The model is also known to "eat" clutches. It surprises us that the models are actually coming better out than the average in TÜV's reports. We have also not assessed the small cars from the Volkswagen group as a number of engine breakdowns occur without any previous signs. They become "risky business" within our budget.

The myths that disappeared

10 years ago we would have recommended the following Japanese: Toyota Corolla (-1997), Toyota Carina II, Toyota Starlet, Honda Civic (-2000) og Nissan Micra mk1. These are still good cars – to the extent that you can call used cars aged 20+ as good. The point is that the models that immediately succeeded the aforementioned legends - and which today are within a NOK 30 budget - do not reach their predecessors in terms of the number of errors and reliability.

Buying advice

Remember that 30 can easily become both 000 and 40 if you are not careful. Imagine that you are going to keep the car for 50 years.

The car's EU inspection should not be older than 1 year. Then the car must pass 2 EU controls. If the deadline for approval is imminent, you should refrain from purchasing. Cars with missing patches are no problem as long as the repair costs are taken into account in the price. Then you are unlikely to get any surprises - and can save money by tracking down used parts and carrying out simple replacements yourself.

The tires should be good for a couple of new seasons, otherwise you have to factor new tires into the purchase price. Standard cheap tires for "grandmother cars" are otherwise not particularly expensive. New tires can compensate for the generally lower level of safety in older small cars.

If the car has a timing belt you need to find out when it was changed. Most must be replaced every five years due to alder. If the reg belt has been changed within the last year, you will never have to worry about it again.

Peace in exposed areas such as wheel arches, ducts and under the doors can send the car to early condemnation. Also see that the rust has not taken over the components in the undercarriage. If chassis parts, suspension, brake pipes and brakes are completely brown and oxidized, the bills can quickly become high.

Body damage is nothing to worry about. The more scratches and dents - the better car you get for the money! However, be aware of damage to the undercarriage and along the ducts.

Service history need not be complete, so long the oil changes is completed. If the seller does not know - or can document the last oil change - you should refrain from buying.

Also check the following
-An unusually shiny and worn steering wheel, wear on the gear ball and worn pedal rubber indicate an unfortunate driving style.
- That the oil on the dipstick is not grey/discolored by water.
- That there is no oil film in the cooling water.
- That there are no leaks of engine oil, gear oil, servo oil or cooling water (does not apply to condensation water from the air conditioning).
-Check for traces of fresh or solidified oil around the cylinder head gasket.
- That the steering wheel is straight when the wheels point straight ahead.
- That the car stands straight and does not lean on one wheel or to one side.
- That no warning lights light up.
- That the clutch engages normally - not too far out.
- That no wheels are hot after the test drive.
-No noise when you turn and give gas at the same time.
-No noise when you press in the clutch at speed and let the car roll with the windows open.
-No noise when driving over speed bumps.
- That engine temperature does not move towards red.

Fact car for 30000

Toyota Yaris

Model change from model year 2006. Most popular engine is 1,0 65 HP until the model change in 2006, then the engine got 69 HP. The Yaris with 1,3 liter 87 HP is perceived as far fresher and is the best engine within our budget. Both the 1,0- and 1,3-litre engines have a timing chain - not a belt. In the TÜV reports, both Yaris 1 and 2 end up among the very best in the period 2004-2011.

Honda jazz

Model change from model year 2009. The new model looks much better than the more side-rumped predecessor. But according to TÜV, it gets oldest The Jazz model scores best in terms of reliability. The reason why newer models fall in terms of reliability is due to the brake discs. According to a manager at TÜV, the Jazz would have been at the top if the brake discs had lasted longer. All models sold in Norway have a 1,3 liter engine with 83 HP. The cars after 2009 received an increase in power to 99 HP. Both models have a timing chain - not a timing belt. Considering operating costs, a grandmother-driven Jazz before 2009 with low km appears to be a good alternative within our budget.

Mazda 2

The Mazda 2 was replaced with a new model from model year 2008. In TÜV's reports, the oldest model got the best results. Early models of Mazda 2 can therefore be good buys. Both Mazda models with 1,2 and 1,3 liter engines have a timing chain - not a belt. Standard output is 75 HP for both engines.

Ford Fiesta

The Ford Fiesta mk5 up to and including 2008 shares technology with the corresponding Mazda 2 model. Like the Mazda 2, the 1,3 liter petrol engines have a timing chain. From 2009 there was a new Fiesta model, the mk6. There, all petrol engines have a timing belt that must be changed at regular intervals. In TÜV's reports, the mk5 gets better results than the first years of the mk6.

Opel Agila

The Opel Agila A was replaced by the Agila B in 2009. There aren't that many of the early model in Norway. The small, frugal model is a sister model of the Suzuki Wagon R, and received surprisingly good results in TÜV reports over several years. Actually was Opel results significantly better than Suzuki. We do not know if it is due to German patriotism, or because the Agila got engines from Opel instead of Suzuki. Opel's good reliability also agrees well with our own observations. The new Agila B did not get as good a score as its predecessor in the early years - but is today well above average. It was offered with 1,0 liter 65 HP or 1,2 99 HP. Both have a timing chain - not a belt.

Financial considerations – car for 30000

What can you expect from a car for 30000?

Let's take an example from reality: 1996 Honda Civic bought in 2012 for NOK 28. Mileage: 000. The car had a new timing belt, new winter tires and a major service the year before. The car lived for 105 years after purchase. Number of EU checks: 000. Net annual loss in value after wreck deposit: NOK 7,5. Annual maintenance: Oil change service and fixing of small items: approx. NOK 4-3 per year with some personal effort.

Theoretical example - period over 4 years - Honda Jazz or similar.

Purchase for NOK 30000 - estimated residual value after 4 years: NOK 8
NOK 22 Total loss in value
  NOK 2 EU controls (400 pcs.)
  NOK 4 Oil change (000 pcs.)
  NOK 5 Tires
NOK 12 Predictable repairs
NOK 45 (per year: NOK 400, per month: NOK 11)

See

granny car — Who decides the lifespan of the car?

small car — Complete dented practice car

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